Precision Winter 2020: New for this year
Tag Heuer
TAG’s enduring Carrera watch gets a modern makeover for 2020, with four new versions comprising three in steel with a choice of black, blue or olive-green dials, plus one with rose-gold detailing to the hands and hour markers. Apart from the all-steel green version, the 44mm model is fitted with a ceramic bezel and the in-house 02 movement that can be seen through a transparent case back. Each has a fixed bezel engraved with a tachymeter scale for speed and distance calculations. From £4,695.
Michel Herbelin
Michel Herbelin’s Newport watches have been a favourite among sailing types since the model was created in the early 1980s to honour the long-time venue of the America’s Cup. The unusual bracelet lugs have since remained a signature but their appeal has extended beyond the ‘yachtie’ community thanks to the many interpretations on the Newport theme. The Héritage model, for example, could easily pass as a driving watch with its bold and legible design and urgent red detailing. It’s a bargain at £1,155.
Doxa
The Doxa Sub dive watch has been made available in several guises since its relaunch a few years ago, but only now is it possible to buy a chronometer version. The new Sub 300 COSC is certified for accuracy and, like the first model of 1967 on which the range is based, can be bought with a signature orange dial. Those who aren’t sticklers for originality will appreciate the other colours added: turquoise, yellow, navy, silver and black. All can be paired with rubber straps or a classic ‘beads of rice’ steel bracelet. From £2,350.
Junghans
As Germany’s largest watchmaker, Junghans produces 60,000 timepieces per year at its HQ in the Black Forest, where it is run by manufacturing tycoon and classic car collector Hans-Jochem Steim, who acquired the brand in 2007. During the 1990s, Junghans was famed for its ultra-accurate Mega-1 radio-controlled watch, but it now thrives on the production of more traditional models, such as the new Form A Titan. The automatic watch combines a simple shape with a lightweight titanium case and a matt-finish dial with an embossed minute track. Choose from a tough, buffalo-leather strap or one made from recycled plastic. £980.
MHD
The precocious Matt Humphries was just 21 when he was taken on by the Morgan Motor Company as its chief designer. For the past decade he has worked as a freelance consultant and lecturer, while also setting-up his own watch brand, MHD. Last month we brought you news of his new Type 1 range but we’re equally keen on the racy SA2 (Sprint Automatic 2), especially in black and yellow launch edition trim. Just 100 will be made, priced £645, with Miyota movements.
Bulgari
The celebrated Roman jewellery and watch house has recently become known for setting the standard in ultra-slim timepieces, smashing six ‘slimness’ records with variations of its Octo Finissimo model, the latest being a tourbillon chronograph that measures 7.4mm thick and costs £130,000. But in light of the more understated approach to luxury triggered by Coronavirus, Bulgari has also re-launched its famous entry-level Aluminium model from 1998. Available online only, the 40mm watches cost £2,580 for the three-hander and £3,720 for the chronograph.
Seiko
The Japanese brand is on a roll, expanding its high-end Grand Seiko range with some well-conceived models and adding to its regular Seiko lines with a raft of new mechanical and quartz offerings. One of the stand-outs is the Urban Safari variation on the Prospex Street dive watches designed for everyday wear. It looks great with its desert-sand strap-and-dial combination. Mechanical three-hand movements or solar- powered, quartz chronograph calibres are available £510 (mechanical); £460 (quartz).
BWD
Bamford Watch Department, the watch-customisation service, has partnered with Casio to create a special-edition G-Shock digital model. The £149 G-Shock 5610 (top, right) has highlights in BWD’s signature aqua blue but otherwise closely resembles the original G-Shock from 1983. The cult LCD watch was invented by electronics designer Kikuo Ibe after he smashed a much-loved wristwatch given to him by his father. It can survive a minimum 10m drop on a solid surface.
Patek Philippe
Connoisseur brand Patek Philippe has a tradition of marking its historic milestones with limited editions that, despite appearing pricey at launch, almost invariably soar in value. That may be the case with the beautifully simple Ref 6007A-001 Calatrava (centre, left), created in a 1,000-piece edition to commemorate the opening of the brand’s PPG production building in Geneva. With a 40mm steel case, at £21,710 it costs more than many gold watches, but it will be worth more in years to come.
Audemars Piguet
Audemars Piguet might be best known for its top-selling Royal Oak but some of its most delectable watches were made in tiny numbers during the pre- and post-war years. Now the brand is dipping into its archive and bringing some of those past models back to life, starting with a recreation of the Ref 1533 chronograph from the ’40s. The new version, named the [Re]master01, features the Calibre 4409 flyback chronograph movement in a 40mm steel case with pink gold details. The champagne dial and blued steel chronograph hands are dead ringers for those of the original. It costs around £52,000.
Zenith
The historic Zenith brand must be in the running for producing one of the most unusual watches of 2020 with its £11,000 Defy 21 Ultraviolet. In what is claimed to be a watchmaking first, it has coloured parts of its ultra-high- frequency El Primero 21 twin-escapement movement in a violet hue and fitted it into a 44mm titanium case. A violet rubber strap completes the picture.
Blancpain
Back in 1953, Blancpain unveiled what it describes as the first ‘modern’ diving watch, pipping to the post the more famous Rolex Submariner that arrived the following year. The Fifty Fathoms has been made available in as many as 100 variations, with the latest being this Bathyscaphe Mokarran (below, right). It’s a 50-piece limited edition, with £750 of the £11,800 purchase price donated towards the protection of hammerhead sharks.
Reservoir
French brand Reservoir has developed a cult following since its launch in 2018 with a retrograde minute, jump hour watch based on the look of an old Mini speedometer. One of the latest additions to the range is the Supercharged Classic Red Zone that mimics the design of a vintage car tachometer. Limited to 250, it’s supplied with both a black, calf leather strap and a nylon alternative. £3,500.
Jaeger-Lecoultre
Followers of the Kingsman movie franchise might know that both Bremont and TAG Heuer have previously supplied watches to the props team that equips the sartorially aware characters. Now it’s the turn of Jaeger-LeCoultre, which has created a limited edition of 100 watches to coincide with February’s proposed release of The King’s Man, a prequel that looks back to the origins of the spy organisation. Ralph Fiennes’ character, the Duke of Oxford, wears the super-slim JLC Knife Watch, 100 examples of which are available to buy at Mr Porter or from Jaeger-LeCoultre boutiques for £26,900.
Rolex
The cancellation of 2020’s Baselworld left horophiles in doubt as to whether Rolex would unveil any watches this year. Fans were put out of their misery when the wraps were pulled off a slew of fresh models across the Oyster Perpetual, Sky-Dweller, Datejust and Submariner ranges. Any change to the Submariner is considered important, so the creation of a larger 41mm case housing a new movement caused a stir. Rolex revealed eight variations on the new model, including one with a green bezel, one in white gold with a blue bezel and black dial, and steel and gold Rolesor versions with black or blue dials. The most eye-catching new watches are Oyster Perpetuals, which come with a choice of coloured dials. The new Submarinerstarts at £6,450 for the steel model without date; the 36mm Oyster with new dial colours starts at £4,450.